Boulangerie La Vendeenne
If
you visit one of Nova Scotia’s many outdoor farmer’s markets this
season and happen to arrive early enough, you may come across a long
line of people. I encourage you - get in line! Chances are that you
will be waiting for bread and pastries from the French bakery,
Boulangerie La Vendeenne. I can promise you, it’s well worth the wait.
Jean
Marc Riant, owner and baker at Boulangerie La Vendeenne, has been
baking bread for Nova Scotia since moving here from Montreal in 1997.
He initially opened a small bakery in Yarmouth, but found the distance
to Halifax, where much of his bread is marketed, too long a drive. Jean
Marc and his family now live in Martin River, on the South Shore, where
he produces his beautiful French bread and pastries in the bakery he
built next to his home.
Originally from the La
Vendeenne region on the Atlantic coast of France, Jean Marc has been
baking French-style bread for many years now. He started apprenticing
to be a baker when he was 15, and has been perfecting his craft ever
since. For Jean Marc, being a baker is definitely not routine. “Baking
bread is not the same everyday,” he asserts. “We work with a living
thing - the yeast and the fermentation”. And despite the apparent
simplicity of ingredients - flour, water, salt and yeast - baking good
bread requires the same attention to detail as any other artisan’s
craft. Understanding the nature of the different grains and flours,
mixing the flavours, and working with yeast are all a part of the
challenge to create consistently high quality bread and pastries. Jean
Marc insists about baking bread, “I still learn”. When he is traveling
in Quebec, he often asks to be taken on for a night of working in
another French bakery as an opportunity to share skills and knowledge.
The
bread from Boulangerie La Vendeenne is certified organic through the
Maritime Organic Growers Association. For Jean Marc, deciding to use
organic ingredients for his bread made sense. “I grew up eating really
good food,” he said. His mother, an inspiring cook herself, always
ensured that her family’s food was of the highest quality - grown
naturally and locally. Jean Marc gets his grains and flour from
Speerville Flour Mills of New Brunswick, as well as from an OCIA
certified mill in Saskatoon. Having organic certification assures his
customers that both quality of ingredients and certified organic
processing standards are adhered to.
Jean Marc’s bread
has definitely been well received in Nova Scotia. At the height of his
baking season, when the outdoor farmers’ markets are in full swing,
Boulangerie La Vendeenne is producing 2000 loaves a night, three nights
a week. At that point, the bakery can be using up to sixty, 25 kg bags
of flour a week. During the winter, the bakery has a crew of four,
increasing to a crew of seven from May until mid-autumn.
Even
though you’ll now find long lines of people eagerly waiting for bread
from Boulangerie la Vendeenne, it took a few years to build up
business. Jean Marc recalls how he spent the first two years “talking
up” his bread. He would tell people, “If you want to taste something
different”. And the bread is different. French style bread requires a
process of slow fermentation. Unlike most conventional bakeries, Jean
Marc does not use a proofing oven to promote leavening. Going slowly
reduces oxidation in the fermentation, or rising, of the bread. While
fast rising gives you a higher loaf of bread, Jean Marc insists that
oxidation “kills the taste”.
The modern stone oven used
at Boulangerie La Vendeenne is from Quebec, and the bread is baked
directly on a large stone. French bread typically has a well-defined
crust, a chewy texture, and is a pleasure to eat. Along with a wide
variety of fresh yeast breads such - baguettes, multi-grain, and a
sweet apricot and almond bread (my favourite!), the bakery produces a
sour dough bread which Jean Marc says is his most popular. Just to keep
everyone in that long-line at the farmer’s market in pleasant
anticipation, Jean Marc makes a new bread to try every month.
Jean
Marc is very positive about the future of organic French-style bread in
Nova Scotia. With plans in the works for expanding his bakery, Jean
Marc is hopeful that as more people become interested in food that is
not mass produced or denatured with preservatives, bakeries like his
and other local food artisans and farms will thrive. After speaking
with Jean Marc you can appreciate his optimism, and view that good
bread is a metaphor of a vibrant community - “you have the farmer, the
miller, the baker, these are all for the community” he says.
Bread
and pastries from Boulangerie La Vendeenne can be found year round at
The Halifax Brewery Market, Planet Organic Market, Pete’s Frootique,
and the Italian Gourmet. Jean Marc also markets his baked goods to
several restaurants. From mid-spring until the end of autumn,
Boulangerie La Vendeenne can be found at farmers’ markets in Lunenburg,
Mahone Bay, Annapolis Royal, Hubbards, and Wolfville.
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